Can you mulch over weeds




















And those seeds can remain alive in the soil for 70 years waiting to sprout and overrun your perennial border at any time. Controlling weeds is a fight you can't win entirely because they always grow back. But you can keep weeds under control by depriving new ones of the conditions they need to take root in the first place. For those of you who already have weeds attacking your yard, read our article on How to Get Rid of Weeds.

As with most types of prevention, discouraging weed seeds from sprouting requires some extra time now so you can save a lot of time later.

Too little fertilizer can lead to sparse lawn that loses the competition with weeds. Too much helps nurture certain weeds, notably annual bluegrass, Bermuda grass and crabgrass. Strike a balance by following the application rates on the package. And use a fertilizer with a high percentage of controlled-release nitrogen, such as sulfur-coated urea, ureaform or IBDU. These provide a slow, steady nutrient supply.

The frequency and timing of your fertilizing efforts are also crucial to healthy lawns. Both vary depending on your lawn type and the length of your growing season. Most northern lawns need only one or two applications of fertilizer annually—once in fall and sometimes a second time in spring. Southern grasses might require three feedings—early to mid-spring just after the grass greens up, early summer and again in early fall. Frequent, light watering causes shallow roots and helps annual bluegrass, crabgrass, chickweed, sedges and other weed seeds germinate.

If you water too little, the lawn suffers while spotted spurge, Bermuda grass, quackgrass and other weeds adapted to drier soil thrive. Instead, provide your lawn with infrequent, deep soakings. Lawns need about 1 inch of water per week. Set an empty tuna can on the lawn to determine when you have applied 1 inch of water. Yes, you can. Synthetic landscape fabrics provide a physical barrier to weeds yet allow air, water and nutrients through to plant roots.

Spread the fabric over bare soil around trees and shrubs; overlap several inches of fabric at the seams. Anchor the material with U-shaped metal pins, then conceal it with 1 to 2 in. You can also use landscape fabrics to control weeds under decks and in pathways spread over the excavated soil base before you add gravel or sand. Extremely low cost when compared to other mulch, though not as decorative. Ideal for vegetable gardens beds and paths where it composts quickly, often in one season.

Grass clippings Can suppress weeds adequately if piled thickly enough, though not as long lasting as straw. In hot areas, may form a temporary, impenetrable mat while decomposing, preventing crops from surfacing if applied before sprouting. If composting rapidly, may burn nearby plants. Use around woody shrubs, older plants, or use once dried. Usually free if you have lawn clippings, but watch for weed seeds. Newspaper Another low-cost option that suppresses weeds if layered.

Less aesthetic than other options so often used under more attractive mulch. If used alone, needs anchoring or will blow away. May contain toxic metals or chlorine bleach that can build in soil over time.

Consult your local paper about bleaching practices oxygen vs. Soy-based inks may also contain genetically modified ingredients, so assess this when researching local sources. Limit disturbance The less you turn and disturb your soil, the less likely you are to have weeds reseeding in your garden. Cover with landscape fabric Landscape fabric prevents weeds from taking root by blocking the soil from weed seeds.

Plant ground covers Weeds thrive by gaining a foothold and outcompeting more desirable garden plants. As a lawn replacement, green manure, or between garden beds to add nitrogen to the soil. Contains alleopathic weed inhibiting compounds. Barley, oats, rye, wheat, fescues, hairy vetch, perennial ryegrass, buckwheat. Full sun For short-term weed control.

Produce alleochemicals that inhibit the growth of nearby plants. Chamomile Full sun, dappled shade. Use European chamomile Chamaemelum nobile as a lawn replacement. Woolly thyme Full sun, partial shade Around patio bricks and stepping stones Rock rose Full sun In sunny edges along lawns or borders and beds. Anemones Light shade Around perennials, shrubs, and along walkways. Sweet woodruff Full to partial shade In borders, around shrubs and trees, and in swaths along lawns.

Hebe Sun or partial shade. In landscaping around larger shrubs and trees. The variety Hebe pagei spreads to form a low growing mat with delicate white flowers that bloom in spring and summer.

Kinnikinnick Full sun, partial shade. On steep banks and in other hard-to-grow areas. Will grow in poor, dry soil once established but needs adequate drainage. Extremely drought tolerant. Fabric weed barriers are another option, though they aren't always as effective as plastic in preventing weeds from growing.

Don't use clear plastic weed barriers because they aren't as effective as black plastic. Clear plastic lets more sunlight in, which can encourage weed growth.

Don't use plastic weed barriers around trees and shrubs because it prevents their roots from getting adequate water. Sara Ipatenco has taught writing, health and nutrition. She started writing in and has been published in Teaching Tolerance magazine.

Ipatenco holds a bachelor's degree and a master's degree in education, both from the University of Denver. This gives them a clear advantage, not only over landscape fabric, but over digging out weeds too. The first thing you need to do is put down a weed barrier. Newspaper is ideal cardboard is okay too as a permeable, completely biodegradable, soil-enhancing alternative to landscape fabric. Lay your newspaper five or six sheets thick and overlap them generously to avoid gaps that weeds could push up through, then soak it well.

Cover the newspaper or cardboard with at least two or three inches cm of loose, well-rotted organic mulch. Well-rotted garden compost, manure, sawdust, shredded bark, leafmold, coir, or a mixture of organic materials, all work well as mulch. This does make them more work than landscape fabric, but you will be rewarded with rich, friable soil.



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